Salt hills and steppes

On our last day in Provence we drove home via the Camargue, because we are charmed by its countryside. We passed large white hills of crystal salt pulled from the sea to make money. We were then brought to a complete standstill by a town that looked like an architect’s recreation of many, but similar, sets of mounded salt hills: La Grande Motte. We could not believe our eyes.

Last year, at exactly this time we were leasing an apartment in a building in Chicago reminiscent of what we were now seeing. A really unusual building, that caused a lot of comment in the architecturally savvy city that is Chicago. This French seaside town looked as if that very same architect had transplanted himself to France for a decade. He hadn’t, we discovered, but the era, the inspiration, were of the time: the sixties: so the influences were similar.

In an effort to counteract the pull of the Spanish coastal resorts Charles de Gaulle, in the 1960s, decided to turn this stretch of sand, sea, salt and flamingo-filled lagoons into something that might make attract French travellers and make France some money. Rather than Spain.

An architect was hired, Jean Balladur. Monsieur Balladur must have had a field day. He had complete freedom to build a resort on the coast that would keep people coming. And he did. Building after building after building is his. Each is similar, yet each is different. But you can see that the same man designed all of them.

The buildings, and they are all white apartment or commercial blocks, rise up out of the ground like spectacularly shaped salt hills. Then, at some point, in their construction they veer off into a sharp angle to the high sun: like the stepped Inca ruins of Machu Pichu.

None of us can ever recall visiting a town like this: where everything is so – homogenous -- in style. It is as crispy clean as Singapore, and each building could yet grace the front cover of many an architectural magazine.

Is it ugly? I am sure there are purists who would think so. Is it beautiful? I have no doubt there are many who would be fans of this homogenous architecture who would adore the place. We were fascinated by it.

What is interesting to speculate is how much fun the architect must have had planning this town. The freedom to plot a new building here, another one there. What luxury he had to make the decisions he had to make: about proportion, execution, how to fill space. How many architects ever have such a free commission? Not even purpose-built cities like Canberra smack of such singular architecture.

One thing for sure: you cannot miss this place. It is jaw-droppingly different, worth a visit, and, actually, draws crowds. Who are the expensive set. The marina is a mooring for multi-millionaires, filled with the largest leisure boats we have yet seen in any one place. Hundreds upon hundreds of them. The restaurants are sophisticated, and sport only the most elegantly dressed clientele

And us. Smartly dressed people – and us! -- walk up and down wide beautifully kept promenades, ogling Balladur’s buildings. What fun to come across something that is such a complete surprise.

White hills of Crystal salt

White houses that simulate the white salt hills

White on white