Saint Foy and her reliquary

Today we visited the village of Conques, one of the most beautiful villages in France. Conques is famous for its magnificent tympanum along with its treasury in the cloister museum of the Church of Saint Foy. The Tympanum, the tableaux arch at the entrance to St Foy’s church is classified as one of the greatest treasures in the Christian collection. Alone, it is worth a pilgrimage.

One side depicts the entrants into Heaven, who are, sadly, rather a boring lot, with peaceful smiles and bland demeanours. On the other side are those who have not been chosen: devilish, monkeyish, wicked. They look lots more fun, and, as characters, way more appealing. Lovely little touches all through this Tympanum. Tucked away in the arch is a mischievous little thing: showing a nose and finger knuckles over bricks, probably the original Foo Was Her.

Saint Foy was a girl. A nobleman’s child. As was common at the time, she was given over to a nursemaid when she was but a child. Unfortunately for Papa this nursemaid was Christian lady who taught Foy (who chose the name, Faith) the principles of Christianity: doing good for the poor, caring for others, which she held true, for life. Papa was not a happy chappy, and often tried to catch Foy out as she stole food from their chateau to feed the poor. Knowing she had taken bread he fronted her one day, asking her to reveal what was hidden beneath her cloak. Relying totally on her faith, Foy said: “Look, Papa!” and, like magic, bunches of flowers appeared instead of the loaves of bread that were missing. The Catholic church sees this as a miracle. It does not simultaneously acknowledge that lying, a sin, accompanies this tale.

Tucked away in the cloisters of this little Church is a remarkable collection of the treasures of Christianity: the Reliquary of St Foy. One of the abbots of the Middle Ages, with oodles of money tithed from his parishoners, was able to commission artisan pieces of gold and silver: monstrances, tabernacles, triptychs, statuettes and other gorgeous reliquary decorated in precious metals, cabochon, cloisonné and precious jewels.

Some of these relics are breathtaking. And, totally, priceless. After seeing them, Pete has decided that Bec need not bother becoming a saint. Instead she should find a rich patron. One with a taste for things gold and silver, who will bestow such gifts on her. These he thinks might make more money. He will displays them under glass, in a museum, charging a substantial entrance fee, he says: Tresors of Saint Bec.

Today we eat lunch in one of the tourist restaurants in Conques. Three courses came on one plate: salade aux nois (avec nuts), roti of porc (spiced roast pork) avec frites, Pays du Cantal fromage et pain: €11.50 per person. Even on our worst day we can do better in our camping car than most tourist fare, nice enough though this was.

Tonight, in a municipal campground at Naucelle, we find WIFI, our first yet, so I quickly posted some rough blog drafts and munch a light supper of omelette et salade before bed. I am reading George East’s tale of the Mill of the Flea series, a British journalist-cum-writer living most of the year in Normandy. I ordered his entire Normandy series before arriving in the UK. Most nights I can’t wait to crawl into bed and laugh at each new chapter. Je t’adore, George!

Conques magnificent tympanum in Church of St Foy

Artisan reliquary of gold

Abbey church of St Foy